Didier Raoult has now turned to cosmetics

I am sure you remember Didier Raoult:

• Didier Raoult’s research is being called into question
• Didier Raoult and the hydroxychloroquine controversy ( part 1 )
• A census of untruths about chloroquine ( part 2 )
• HYDROXYCHLOROQUINE: This is NOT a Hollywood blockbuster ( Part 3)

Raoult has been banned from practising medicine for two years, and his ‘landmark study’ on hydroxychloroquine as a treatment for Covid-19 has been retracted. But, as the French magazine ‘LE POINT’ reported, he can’t stop himself from producing BS. On the ‘Magnifiscience’ website, the name of the cosmetics company in which he is a partner, we learn that (my translation):

Magnifiscience, the alternative to injections and facelifts!
Science at the service of skin health
Discover a range that smoothes the skin, reduces wrinkles and fine lines, while plumping and firming for a more radiant complexion.
Our skin care products work deep down to improve the skin’s natural composition. They stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, while moisturising, optimising cell renewal and strengthening the skin’s barrier.
A molecular innovation that redefines the boundaries of science.

Scientific Cosmetics
At Magnifiscience, we push back the boundaries of beauty by combining the power of science with cosmetic innovation.

Our formulas are the result of advanced biomedical research, combining high-performance active ingredients to stimulate skin regeneration, protect against external aggressors and slow down the visible signs of ageing.

Each skin care product is designed to work in depth to deliver proven, visible and long-lasting results.

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For 75 euros per 60 ml, LE POINT explains, the Tonitence 1 and Tonitence 2 contain DRNB7 and DRNB8 ‘powerful active ingredient’ complexes. These acronyms are based on the initials of the partners: Didier Raoult and Nina Basri, a ‘specialist in the formulation of cosmetic active ingredients’. Her LinkedIn profile shows no studies or degrees in pharmacy or dermatology, but a series of company start-ups in beauty products. A Forbes Brand stories advertorial explains that her vocation was born ‘from the observation of a curious little girl: the powers of water. Since most of the human bodý is made up of water, Nina Basri saw this as a lever for action.’ Water is indeed present in both creams. It’s even their main ingredient. In addition to water, there are mainly nourishing sunflower and safflower oils. For hydration, there’s squalane, but no hyaluronic acid or even glycerine; they chose propylene glycol, which is less effective. For 75 euros for 60 ml, you’d expect something better. Vitamin C is also present, albeit indirectly, via orange extract, and in low doses. The formula also contains a number of active plant ingredients, including extracts of ginseng, apple… and ‘garlic bulb and onion.

In addition to the AMAP basket, which, let’s be fair, may contain small doses of exfoliating fruit acids and antioxidant vitamins and polyphenols, there’s a good ladleful of polymers that deposit a film on the skin: hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, as well as silicone (dimethicone), which also forms a film. The result is a temporary, mechanical filling effect that disappears when the make-up is removed. More worryingly, the cream contains Benzyl Alcohol and Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, which (like garlic and onion) are potentially allergenic.

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So, what about Raoult’s/Magnifiscience’s dermatological claims that their creams:

• reduce wrinkles,
• reduce fine lines,
• improve the skin’s natural composition,
• stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid,
• optimise cell renewal,
• strengthen the skin’s barrier,
• stimulate skin regeneration,
• protect against external aggressors ,
• slow down the visible signs of ageing?

Any evidence?

As far as I can see, no!